16-23 Feb: Sonne und Skiing im Wilder Kaiser!

A foggy day at Traprain Law

Ordinary Route (Summit Buttresss), Stob Coire nan Lochain

Summit Buttress, Stob Coire nan Lochain

With a promising forecast, and a keen Gareth, I took a day off and headed over to Fort William on Tuesday evening. Wednesday morning saw us toiling up the zig-zags to Stobbers, which was far less arduous than I remembered from a year ago - must be stronger! The coire was resplendent in the clear air and covered with a thick blanket of powder. It would have been a fantastic day for skiing, with Broad Gully looking ripe for some fresh tracks. Gaz set off on the first pitch which followed innocuous looking snowy ramps, but it soon became apparent that progress was going to be slow as the line followed grooved slabs buried in unconsolidated snow. Following this pitch proved to be a pretty draining experience, as solid axe placements were hard won in the soft stuff and my kick-steps constantly collapsed. Kudos to Gaz as this was insecure and run-out climbing. Arriving at the belay I'd lost my sense of humour completely. As Marshall had spent nearly 3 hours on the first pitch, I figured he was clearly enjoying and savouring the lead, so I was happy for him to press on. At the next belay it was getting late, so with the meat of the route in the bag we traversed off into Boomerang Gully. Back down the track, a pint in the Clachaig, a delicious piece of haddock in Callendar, and home to Edinburgh, having learned a little more about Scottish winter climbing.

Aeolus calls the shots...

Got up at 4:30am for a lift up to the Cairngorms with Russell and Steve. Met Marshall at the Coire Cas car park, where the car rocked in a wind far stronger than that forecast. Turned tail and went for breakfast in Aviemore. Went back to Coire Cas for another look, and walked a short way in towards Coire an t'Sneachda before sacking it off in a wind that was recorded at 132mph on the plateau. Frustrating!