Tuesday 27 May 2008

Tying the knot!

So this weekend Sam and Jenny got married at Helensburgh, followed by a reception at Auchendenan House on the banks of Loch Lomond.
It was such a beautiful day, Jenny looked fabulous in the most amazing dress, and Euan and I rocked the modern Highland look to the max...
Later, after a daylong orgy of fine food and booze we all got down to some full-on ceilidh action, over-looked by the stags and portraited Scots ancestry hung on the walls of the Great Hall...
On Sunday Rachel and Euan bailed back to Edinburgh, so I joined a merry band headed up north to soothe our foggy heads in the hills.
Without having brought along a sleeping bag, Sunday night was a cold one but Monday dawned warm and bright. A day that starts with jumping off a waterfall into the Etive river is always going to be good, and this was no exception. After a lazy morning of tea, crepes and flapjack, Tom, Diana & I bid farewell to the others and went round to the Buachaille. After Tom had backed off a solo of The Chasm the evening before, he seemed pretty psyched for a big classic route. Bludgers/Revelation was the obvious choice and on the sweaty walk-in, the mountain had a much friendlier ambience than on any previous visit. However, once in the shady confines of Great Gully the foreboding rock architecture began to do it's thing and my throat dried a little. Ignore it and get on it, I told myself and went about racking up for the first steep groove pitch. This went quickly and pretty easily, bridging upwards from jug to jug with gear between every few moves - my kind of pitch! Flailing on this pitch with wooden fingers last July seemed a distant memory. Bludgers is certainly a route for a very warm day as the lower portion of Slime Wall gets no direct light, and even today Diana and I shivered in the breeze as Tom took time getting slighty lost on the ramp above. From the outset, the climbing on this route is exposed as the gully drops way steeply, and on the upper section this goes from wild to outrageous! Delicate climbing across the ramp on the most perfect rock takes you to the famed Revelation flake - a welcome jug-haul above the growing void. A final easy pitch took us out on to North Buttress and back into the sunlight...
Another beautiful Highland evening on the deserted summit. Bring on the Real Food Cafe. May has been awesome again...

Sunday 20 April 2008

A wee tour...

Went up to Aviemore on Saturday evening. On Sunday, after a night on the beach at Loch Morlich, and the heartiest of hearty breakfasts, Euan and I skiied over to Ben Macdui. The plateau was plastered, it was such an awesome day. We made a short film...

A fat moon over Cairngorm




Some folks skiing Aladdin's Mirror

Sunday 13 April 2008

Spring's promise...

"Before I go home to China, I want to go to strip club..." Not your average work leaving do, and when at 1am I make my farewell, I see the seedy reality of the dingy Lothian Road club has fallen some way short of Scarlett's Sex and the City expectations. Red-eyed and pathetic, clutching a litre of water, 6:30 am finds me at the bus stop, and by 7am I'm leaving Waverley for the Fort. Coming to at Bridge of Orchy there have been two new developments: the east coast grey has been replaced by brilliant sunshine, and the empty seats around me have been occupied by Munro types of the the worst kind. The light and the scenery is spectacular, but it's having an unwelcome effect on my new neighbours - they're getting all excited and shouty. "Martin, did I tell you about mine and Tim's trip to Skye?" No? Well, you'd better tell the whole carriage. I hope you get sucked down to a peaty end with that ridiculous rucksack. What have you got in there anyway? They disembark at Corrour. I eye up likely bogs and my mood lifts. At noon, I meet Gaz at the station and then it's lunch and copious mugs of coffee at the Crucible. Spring has arrived in full force in Lochaber and the contrast to the damp grimness of my last visit is marked. We head down to the Glen with routes in mind and make a sweaty toiling mess of finding Secretaries Buttress on the hillside of Polldubh. With showers threatening we go for the easy option of Secretaries Direct - a fun three pitch route. On the other side of the buttress Gaz fancies a single pitch E1 that he quickly climbs in good style, with only a brief wobble on the crux final moves. After that, it's down to the Hat for a throw on Maisie Gunn. It doesn't feel good though, I can't seem to sort my feet out and I flail. Meanwhile Gaz is doing well on his recent project, and manages to link Killer Instinct before blowing the (what looks) easier final mantle. He gets it next go though, and it wraps up the day nicely - check out the video at the bottom...

On Sunday morning, we take the Corran ferry to check out some boulders in Glen Tarbet that Marshall has previously spotted on one his dawn bird-bothering raids. The boulder below is about 500m from the road up on the hillside and is shaped like a large clamshell. On close inspection it's larger than you initially think, with a bulging wall of black rippled gneiss about 8m high. Gaz climbed the obvious dirty crack and I busied myself with a sit-start through the bulge to the right...

Back down the hillside is a smaller boulder with a slabby nose that gives a cool mantle problem...

Further west, down by the stream, are a collection of heather-topped granite boulders. Gaz off, and on a thin slab...


Sunday 9 March 2008

Somewhere between the real and the imagined...

The chap on the left is a wrong 'un. The one on the right has some issues with the Scottish winter game. Taken on top of No. 3 Gully Buttress, The Ben.

Sunday 2 March 2008