Sunday, 13 April 2008

Spring's promise...

"Before I go home to China, I want to go to strip club..." Not your average work leaving do, and when at 1am I make my farewell, I see the seedy reality of the dingy Lothian Road club has fallen some way short of Scarlett's Sex and the City expectations. Red-eyed and pathetic, clutching a litre of water, 6:30 am finds me at the bus stop, and by 7am I'm leaving Waverley for the Fort. Coming to at Bridge of Orchy there have been two new developments: the east coast grey has been replaced by brilliant sunshine, and the empty seats around me have been occupied by Munro types of the the worst kind. The light and the scenery is spectacular, but it's having an unwelcome effect on my new neighbours - they're getting all excited and shouty. "Martin, did I tell you about mine and Tim's trip to Skye?" No? Well, you'd better tell the whole carriage. I hope you get sucked down to a peaty end with that ridiculous rucksack. What have you got in there anyway? They disembark at Corrour. I eye up likely bogs and my mood lifts. At noon, I meet Gaz at the station and then it's lunch and copious mugs of coffee at the Crucible. Spring has arrived in full force in Lochaber and the contrast to the damp grimness of my last visit is marked. We head down to the Glen with routes in mind and make a sweaty toiling mess of finding Secretaries Buttress on the hillside of Polldubh. With showers threatening we go for the easy option of Secretaries Direct - a fun three pitch route. On the other side of the buttress Gaz fancies a single pitch E1 that he quickly climbs in good style, with only a brief wobble on the crux final moves. After that, it's down to the Hat for a throw on Maisie Gunn. It doesn't feel good though, I can't seem to sort my feet out and I flail. Meanwhile Gaz is doing well on his recent project, and manages to link Killer Instinct before blowing the (what looks) easier final mantle. He gets it next go though, and it wraps up the day nicely - check out the video at the bottom...

On Sunday morning, we take the Corran ferry to check out some boulders in Glen Tarbet that Marshall has previously spotted on one his dawn bird-bothering raids. The boulder below is about 500m from the road up on the hillside and is shaped like a large clamshell. On close inspection it's larger than you initially think, with a bulging wall of black rippled gneiss about 8m high. Gaz climbed the obvious dirty crack and I busied myself with a sit-start through the bulge to the right...

Back down the hillside is a smaller boulder with a slabby nose that gives a cool mantle problem...

Further west, down by the stream, are a collection of heather-topped granite boulders. Gaz off, and on a thin slab...


Sunday, 9 March 2008

Somewhere between the real and the imagined...

The chap on the left is a wrong 'un. The one on the right has some issues with the Scottish winter game. Taken on top of No. 3 Gully Buttress, The Ben.

Sunday, 2 March 2008

Thursday, 7 February 2008

Ordinary Route (Summit Buttresss), Stob Coire nan Lochain

Summit Buttress, Stob Coire nan Lochain

With a promising forecast, and a keen Gareth, I took a day off and headed over to Fort William on Tuesday evening. Wednesday morning saw us toiling up the zig-zags to Stobbers, which was far less arduous than I remembered from a year ago - must be stronger! The coire was resplendent in the clear air and covered with a thick blanket of powder. It would have been a fantastic day for skiing, with Broad Gully looking ripe for some fresh tracks. Gaz set off on the first pitch which followed innocuous looking snowy ramps, but it soon became apparent that progress was going to be slow as the line followed grooved slabs buried in unconsolidated snow. Following this pitch proved to be a pretty draining experience, as solid axe placements were hard won in the soft stuff and my kick-steps constantly collapsed. Kudos to Gaz as this was insecure and run-out climbing. Arriving at the belay I'd lost my sense of humour completely. As Marshall had spent nearly 3 hours on the first pitch, I figured he was clearly enjoying and savouring the lead, so I was happy for him to press on. At the next belay it was getting late, so with the meat of the route in the bag we traversed off into Boomerang Gully. Back down the track, a pint in the Clachaig, a delicious piece of haddock in Callendar, and home to Edinburgh, having learned a little more about Scottish winter climbing.

Sunday, 3 February 2008

Aeolus calls the shots...

Got up at 4:30am for a lift up to the Cairngorms with Russell and Steve. Met Marshall at the Coire Cas car park, where the car rocked in a wind far stronger than that forecast. Turned tail and went for breakfast in Aviemore. Went back to Coire Cas for another look, and walked a short way in towards Coire an t'Sneachda before sacking it off in a wind that was recorded at 132mph on the plateau. Frustrating!